Personal Loans Guide

Debt consolidation loans explained

Combining several debts into one loan can cut both your interest bill and the mental load of managing them. It can also increase what you pay in total. The difference is almost always the term, not the rate.

Written by Joshua PevyReviewed by Jordan PearceUpdated 11 min readEditorial StandardsOur Writers
Key takeaways
  • A lower monthly repayment is not the same as a lower total cost. Stretching the same debt over a longer term costs more even at a lower rate.
  • The comparison rate matters, because establishment and monthly fees hit a short personal loan hard.
  • Consolidating closes revolving credit. That structural change, an end date instead of an open limit, is often worth more than the rate saving.
  • Where repayments are already out of reach, free financial counselling is available, and another loan does not change that.

What a debt consolidation loan is

A debt consolidation loan is an ordinary personal loan used for a specific purpose: you borrow enough to pay out several existing debts, then repay the single new loan instead. There is no special product category and usually no special rate. What makes it a consolidation loan is what you do with the money.

The debts people combine are typically credit cards, buy now pay later balances, store cards and other personal loans. What these have in common is high rates and, in the case of cards and buy now pay later, no fixed end date. Those two properties are what make them expensive over time, and consolidation addresses both.

Two things change when you consolidate, and they are worth separating because only one of them is about money. The first is the interest rate: a personal loan at, say, 9% replacing card debt at 21% obviously costs less to carry. The second is the structure: a personal loan has a fixed term, fixed repayments and a date on which it ends, whereas a credit card limit sits there indefinitely and can be redrawn the moment it is paid down. For many people the structural change matters more than the rate.

Working out whether it actually saves you money

The calculation is straightforward, and it is what separates a consolidation that saves money from one that does not. It takes three figures for the current position and three for the proposed loan.

For the existing debts:

  1. The total balance across every debt being consolidated.
  2. The current monthly repayment in total, across all of them.
  3. How long that would take to clear at the current repayment level, and the total interest over that period. Close to the minimum on a card, the realistic answer may be decades.
Worked example, $20,000 of card debt at about 21% p.a.
Consolidate over 3 years
$636/mo
about $2,900 total interest at 9%
Consolidate over 7 years
$322/mo
about $7,000 total interest at 9%

The same debt, the same rate, and the longer term costs roughly $4,100 more in interest while halving the monthly repayment. The lower repayment is not a saving, it is the same debt spread thinner. The shorter the term, the lower the total cost. Figures are illustrative and exclude fees.

Then add the fees, which matter more on a personal loan than most people expect. An establishment fee of $150 to $600 plus a monthly service fee spread across a short loan can move the effective cost noticeably. This is exactly what the comparison rate is designed to capture, which is why the comparison rate on a personal loan often sits well above the advertised rate, and why it is the figure that puts loans on the same footing.

One more adjustment matters. Personal loan rates are set by risk-based pricing, meaning the advertised rate goes to the strongest applicants and the actual offer depends on credit history and income. For someone consolidating because they are struggling, the rate offered may be materially higher than the advertised one, which changes the calculation. Some lenders give a quote without a full application.

The alternatives

Consolidation is one option among several. How they compare depends on the size of the debt and how quickly it can realistically be cleared.

FeatureConsolidation loanBalance transferInto the mortgage
Fixed end date for the debtYesNoNo
Lowest interest rate availableNo0% for a periodYes
Lowest total costOftenIf cleared in timeRarely
Closes the old credit limitsOften requiredNoNot automatically
Puts your home at riskNoNoYes
Suits debt under $5,000SometimesYesNo
Suits debt over $30,000YesNoSometimes
General guidance only. This is not a recommendation and does not account for your circumstances. Rates, fees and eligibility vary by lender and applicant.

Rolling debt into a mortgage is the option that looks cheapest and carries the most risk. The rate is by far the lowest available, which is the attraction, but a 25-year term means a $20,000 debt at a low rate can still cost more in total interest than a three-year personal loan at a much higher one. More seriously, you have converted unsecured debt into debt secured against your home. If circumstances change, the consequences of falling behind are no longer a default on a card, they are a risk to where you live.

Consolidating into a mortgage only keeps the cost down when the consolidated portion is repaid at the old rate rather than the new minimum, so the term does not stretch. Few people do this, which is why the option so often disappoints.

How the process works

  1. Every debt listed with its balance, rate and minimum repayment. Lenders ask for this as part of the application.
  2. The credit file. It is free from each credit reporting body once every three months, and errors on it can cost a better rate.
  3. The comparison rate, and a quote for the applicant’s actual circumstances, which can differ from the advertised rate.
  4. The term. Shorter terms cost less in total, and loans that allow extra repayments without penalty can be cleared faster.
  5. Applications. Multiple applications in a short period are recorded on the credit file and work against the applicant.
  6. Payment of the old debts. Many lenders pay them directly, so the money never passes through the borrower’s account.
  7. The paid-out accounts. A cleared credit card with the limit still open is the single most common way consolidated debt comes back.
  8. Repayments. Automatic repayments timed for the day after payday reduce the chance of a missed one.

That seventh step is the one that determines whether consolidation works over the long run, and it is the one most often missed. The mechanism is easy to see: consolidating clears your cards, the limits remain available, and within a year or two there is a new balance on them alongside the consolidation loan. The person now has more debt than before, at a higher total cost. Lenders frequently require the accounts to be closed as a condition.

A final point, and an important one. Debt consolidation is a tool for a manageable debt at a bad rate. It is not a solution for a debt you cannot service. Where the repayments on a consolidated loan would not be affordable, a new loan is likely to make things worse rather than better. Free, independent and confidential financial counselling is available in Australia through the National Debt Helpline on 1800 007 007. Counsellors can negotiate with creditors, arrange hardship variations and explain options that no lender will mention, and the service costs nothing.

Put it into practice
Compare personal loan rates and comparison rates side by side
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Terms used on this page

Comparison rate
A single rate that folds the advertised interest rate together with most standard fees and charges, so you can compare loans on a more like-for-like basis. It is calculated on a standard example loan, so your real cost can differ.
Unsecured loan
A loan with no asset behind it, approved on your income and credit history alone. Rates run several percentage points above secured loans, but you keep full ownership of whatever you buy.
Secured loan
A loan backed by an asset, usually the car being bought. If you default the lender can repossess and sell it, so the lower risk buys you a materially lower interest rate.
Risk-based pricing
Setting your interest rate from your individual credit profile rather than one advertised rate for everyone. This is why personal loans quote a rate range, and why the advertised rate may not be the rate you are offered.
Establishment fee
A one-off fee charged to set up a loan, typically $150 to $600 on personal and car loans. It is included in the comparison rate, but that figure is calculated on a standard example loan, so on a smaller loan the same fee adds more to your real cost than the comparison rate shows.
Early repayment fee
A charge for paying a loan out ahead of schedule. Common on fixed-rate personal and car loans, and worth checking before you commit if you expect to repay early.
Revolving credit
A credit limit you can draw down, repay and draw again, with no fixed end date. Credit cards are revolving credit, which is why a balance can persist indefinitely unlike a term loan.
Credit score
A number credit reporting bodies calculate from your borrowing history to summarise your credit risk. Applications, repayment history and defaults all feed it, and lenders use it to price and approve credit.

Frequently asked questions

Does debt consolidation actually save money?

It can, but only if the total interest over the new term is less than what you would otherwise pay. Moving high-rate card debt onto a lower-rate personal loan saves money if you keep the term short. Stretching the same debt over a much longer term can cost more overall even at a lower rate, despite a lower monthly repayment.

Will consolidating my debts hurt my credit score?

The application is recorded on your credit file like any credit application. Over time, consistent on-time repayments on a single loan and lower total credit limits generally help, while several applications in a short window or a missed repayment can weigh against you.

What happens if I consolidate debt into my mortgage?

It gives you the lowest rate but the longest term, and it converts unsecured debt into debt secured against your home. Over 25 years the total interest can exceed a shorter personal loan at a higher rate. The cost only stays down if the consolidated portion is repaid at the old repayment level rather than the new minimum.

Can I get a debt consolidation loan with bad credit?

It is harder, and the rate offered will reflect the risk, because personal loans are priced individually. If the rate offered is close to what is already being paid, consolidation may not help. Free financial counselling is available through the National Debt Helpline on 1800 007 007.

Do I have to close my credit cards after consolidating?

Many lenders require it as a condition of the loan. Where they do not, the card stays open. A cleared card with the limit still available is the most common reason consolidated debt reappears within a year or two.

What if I cannot afford the repayments?

Another loan does not fix repayments that are already unaffordable. The National Debt Helpline on 1800 007 007 offers free, confidential financial counselling. Counsellors can negotiate with creditors and arrange hardship variations, and lenders are legally required to consider genuine hardship requests.

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The Numbers Behind This Guide

The live averages and the official figures for this market, kept up to date alongside this guide.

This guide is general information only and does not take your personal circumstances into account. It is not credit advice and CompareThat is not a credit provider. Worked-example figures are illustrative.

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Written by Joshua Pevy, reviewed by Jordan Pearce. We publish information, not personal advice, and nothing here takes your own circumstances into account. Our editorial standards set out who writes and reviews our pages, how often they are updated, and how to tell us about a mistake, and you can see everyone who writes and reviews here.